in a word? tailored. Vintage Tommy Hilfiger, brands like Tahari, INC, Grace Elements - Betsey Johnson makes some great stuff for strong women, but you have to be careful with her arms, they tend to run tight.
I've seen some lush women (blondes, mostly) who can pull off splash prints and florals, but I prefer tonal stripes, subtle prints, and complex dying techniques like shibori.
and, oh - J Peterman is slowly expanding his line to include 18's, which is nice, because his blouses tend to run smaller than a true pioneer, horsewoman, or world traveler would be...but I forgive him, because he reminds me that 'woman' used to be something you earned, not something you got stuck with.
